Tell-A-Tale (Part 22): 古城大事 (A Day In Melaka)

Waking up to the serene Sungai Melaka coiling itself ever so comfortably around the red-roofed, historical Kampung Morten, I felt a beautiful Sunday was beginning to take shape.

I imagined the bend of the river as a broad, welcoming smile.

Heading away from central, I assumed we were on our way to Rembau, via the old route. Along the way, we discovered Kedai Kopi Dan Makanan Soon Yen. A pleasant surprise, I must say.

From the other side of the road, it was the crowd that caught our attention. After detouring and double-parking ala KL, we found ourselves sitting among the locals. The duck noodle stall seemed to be the most celebrated as orders kept pouring in like the amount of whiskey I had the day before. The two bowls of kway teow and a large plate of braised, assorted deliciousness including soft, gelatinous duck feet, eggs and intestines cost RM12.50. "Thank you", said the worker as I handed her the money. "No. Thank you", I whispered for I thought the price was a steal and the taste was good, though mildly herbed. The fried carrot cake, chee cheong fun, kuehs and fishballs were passable.

Let's take a ride around town, shall we?

I could only describe the day as being sunny and warm. What could be more complementing that a bowl of cooling cendol? We tried the infamous dessert from a corner called Donald And Lily's. It was the sweet and fragrant gula Melaka syrup that made the parking fee of RM2.00 worthwhile as the ensemble itself was rather lacklustre.

Legend has it that this once prosperous street of Jonker diminished into oblivion after westerners started installing weather vanes onto the roof of the shophouses. Apparently, it disturbed the harmonious state of feng shui of the area, hence the death. Me, on the other hand, believed that the cocks, which were standing majestically on the vanes, should take responsibility for pecking all the grains of rice, a symbol of richness and abundance. Makes sense, doesn't it?

Supernaturals aside, the Jonker Street of today is of colourful optimism and joy. There's something for everyone. While antique enthusiasts hunt for pieces before them, history buffs make full of the time appreciating the architecture of an era gone by. Foodies rejoice in savouring a myriad of dainties, from tau sar piah to Nyonya kuihs to pineapple tarts and shutterbugs snap away, hoping to capture the days that were.

The day was magical but we had to leave. Back to where historical sites had made way for shopping malls and corporate steels.

Melaka's final gift for us was a bowl of Nyonya laksa from Kedai Kopi & Makanan Yung Lai Siang. For only RM3.00, we've got noodles with a tasty, aptly rich broth and side ingredients such as fried taufu pok, cockles, fishcake slices and prawns. Perfect with a touch of chopped kafir lime leaves. It was definitely one of the best curry noodles I've ever tasted. The savoury soup base for the prawn noodle was good as well. In the same kopitiam, there's a corner offering puffs. Named Grandpa's, we've tried the curry puffs which were filled with large dices of potato, covered with a thick, aromatic layer of curry. I preferred the soft biscuit with sweet/salty dessicated coconut filling. Lovely.

Melaka stands graciously before me a town of good and affordable food, wisdom and fun. The high level of cleanliness made it even more pleasant to the eyes. The capital city should learn a thing or two from here.

We've definitely made a connection despite the short encounter and this is just the beginning.

The start of something that will be known as my 古城大事.

---------------------------------

Kedai Kopi Dan Makanan Soon Yen
Along Jalan Tengkera
Kampung Sembilan
75250 Melaka

Donald And Lily's Corner
At the back of shophouse No.31,
Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock,
Melaka

Kedai Kopi & Makanan Yung Lai Siang
Jalan Bunga Raya Pantai
(Nearby Renaissance Hotel)

Tell-A-Tale (Part 21): Seindah, Sekeping Serendah

The trees, like the longings of the earth, stand a-tiptoe to peep at the heaven.

These little thoughts are the rustle of leaves;
they have their whisper of joy in my mind.

Let me think that there is one among those stars that guides my life through the dark unknown.

Once we dreamt that we were strangers.
We wake up to find that we were dear to each other.

It is the little things that I leave behind for my loved ones, great things are for everyone.

The trees come up to my window like the yearning voice of the dumb earth.

You smiled and talked to me of nothing and I felt that for this I had been waiting long.

In the dusk of the evening the bird of some early dawn comes to
the nest of my silence.

The waterfall sings, "I find my song, when I find my freedom."

The movement of life has its rest in its own music.

The flaming fire warns me off by its own glow.
Save me from the dying embers hidden under ashes.

It is the tears of the earth that keep her smiles in bloom.

We live in this world when we love it.

The best does not come alone.
It comes with the company of the all.

(all verses taken from Rabindranath Tagore’s Stray Birds under PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM EBOOKS)

Note:

To be able to experience the greatness of nature is a rare treat these days as wilderness has evolved to streams of cables and blocks of concretes. But nature has its glorious ways of getting close through masterpieces of our times and before. Rabindranath Tagore’s Stray Birds is one such example that really captures the inner voice which yearns to be in touch with nature. His interpretation of the correlations between nature and the human spirit is just amazing! A personal favourite of mine. On a more local scale, the artistic retreat called Sekeping Serendah, situated in the small town of Serendah offers a chance to be with the (mild) wild, in style. These two masterpieces, combined with the company of a group of most excellent friends (and pan-seared foie gras) made my weekend retreat a beautiful one. Hence, Seindah, Sekeping Serendah.

Sekeping Serendah’s website:
http://www.serendah.com

Parts of the most excellent company:
Lyrical Lemongrass
FatBoyBakes

Tell-A-Tale (Part 20): Sex And The City

There are about 2 million people living in this city, all with different desires and fantasies. Come the morning hours, everyone goes to work, looking rather clean and serious. From the facades, sex may just be the last thing on their fresh minds. Trust not those faces, for behind every 2 inches of M.A.C. or 20 grams of Gatsby, there’s a sextory waiting to be told.

From whips to cream, waxes to rim, we’ve heard it all. They blame the stressful lifestyle for such interesting experimentations. Or is it simply, indulgence?

In the past, my eyes would roll when people say, “…this is better than sex!”. Well, apparently it’s true, as I find out from friends. Unbeknownst to many, this form of better-than-sex kind of sex has been spreading like pollens in the time of spring. All in this city (and beyond).

We talk about it all the time, came in its presence and worshipped (applicable only to the extremists, also known as slamps) its meat. In fact, if we can only whisper (and snigger at) the joys of S&M to the colleague next to us, this orgasmic piece of meat is practically open for discussion (within the boundaries of religious belief and choice of diet, of course).

Healthy porn comes in form of a piece of pork belly, roasted to pinkish perfection, with just the right amount of melting fat, to be sandwiched between a crispy layer of golden brown skin and savoury, tender lean meat. The enlightening texture and the divine taste that I’m sure you have experienced, at least once in your life so far.

Here are three of my rather exhilarating, recent orgasms as I do the sensuous piece of meat we call siew yoke. And no, siew yoke is not the name of a girl (as in Lim Siew Yoke or Chan Siew Yoke or Siew Yoke Jing). It’s a slab of yummy roasted pork belly that goes well with anything from Pinot Noir or Oolong Cha or just moi.

All the oohs and aahs were no fake orgasms. The layer of cotton-soft fat was indeed sexciting while the marbling contributed to the overall softness of the siew yoke. Slightly larger than the norm, the cuts were rather uniform, size-wise. The skin was crispy while the meat has a faint hint of salt. I prefer a heavier dosage of salt though. While the chilli dipping was good (though slightly watery) and the rice was fluffy, I could just do the meat itself.

Get here early for the best piece of siew yoke. With all the tips from Lyrical Lemongrass, I managed to peak on a Saturday afternoon without much fuss.

Bring along some tissues as well. Blowing out of orgasmic proportions, there ought to be some spills; of oil on the pants, shirt and lips.

Restaurant Wong Kee
No. 30, Jalan Nyonya
Off Jalan Pudu
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: (+603) 2145 2512

They’ve experienced it:
Lyrical Lemongrass
SC

From a distance, the welcoming jam (bass from the chopping board and the crackling treble of the skin) was phat.

*chop-crack-chop-crack-chop-crack*

However, it’ll get a bit annoying as you wait (for a significantly long period of time) for your meat. Some popsters are killed this way by MTV.

Quantum of solace came in form of a plate of hot siew yoke. Though slightly leaner than the usuals (which is good news to those who enjoy a cut with less fat), the savouriness of the pink meat was awesome. Coupled with a crunchy (and slightly charred, read aromatic) skin, it was good. There’s the oil/soy sauce drizzle for that extra sweet/salty taste and multiple orgasms.

Other meats though commendable, paled in comparison with that slammin’ piece of belly.

Kum Kee Chicken Rice
Cornershop (Inside Kedai Kopi Dan Makanan Mooi Mooi)
Jalan Rukun 2
Happy Gardens
Off Jalan Kuchai Lama
Kuala Lumpur

They’ve experienced it:
WMW
Cumi & Ciki

Just a 15 minutes drive from my hood, it’s the ultimate *arkbuddy should I have an urge for orgasmic siew yoke. Both the interior and exterior are not the least appealing but should one get pass all that, a piece of divinity awaits.

Ignore the momentum surrounding you. Take it slow and steady. Start with that piece of thick, crunchy, golden brown skin, follow by that creamy layer of fat that will practically smoothen your whole mouth as you take on the lean, salty meat the belly offers. Take a sip of the herbal tea and continue to round two. You can and you know you want to! Even Christmas came more than once in Tomorrow Never Dies, remember?

The grainy ginger dipping was a nice contrasting condiment while the other meats were good as well but we’ll save those for another position time.

A place that I can come to over and over again. Good stuff.

正记 (or verbally called Jing Gei in Cantonese)
Taman Kok Doh Hawker Centre (Opposite Da Ma Cai)
Jalan 17/42
Taman Kok Doh, Segambut
51200 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : (+6012) 383 0621


Is a piece of savoury, aromatic, pinkish siew yoke the futuresexscape of the city?

Ooops, something dripped.

Tampopo

There stands a dandelion. Its seeds fly to the corners of the city, adhering to clothes and skins of urban dwellers. Some don’t really mind those tiny snowflakes on their shirts. Others find them absolutely irritable.

The seeds? Not a pandemic, of course.
Just a mere bowl of ramen.

I caught a light sneeze as the pappuses fluttered into my nostrils. It was a way of telling me how long more would it take before we acquaint.

And so, with the guiding wind, we finally met.

Along the way, there was the Mix Sashimi Set C (S$20.00) which consisted of thick, yes, thick slices of maguro, hamachi and sake. The cold slices were as fresh as dead fish can be. While all the distinctive colours looked somehow attractive, it was the hamachi that outshone the others with its softness.

Beauty is only skin deep, of course. But the skin sure makes a good first impression, or starter, in this case. Crispy Salmon Skin (S$6.30), to be exact. Pollocked with tiny strips of Japanese mayonnaise and teriyaki-like sauce, a simple yet satisfying distraction from the anxiousness of making the acquaintance.

There were corn, a thick slice of char siu, al dente curly ramen and savoury miso soup. But above all, there were lots of crunchy negi. It was all about the contrast, really. Bland negi with salty/sweet miso paste. Sweet, plump corn to nibble and flaky char siu to tear. Not too bad, this Deluxe Miso Ramen (S$14.80), only mostly slightly oily.

Here we were, face to face. Greeting was a dig into the bowl of the infamous Shabu Shabu Ramen (S$13.80), to reveal a few strips of the black, hairy kurobuta (Berkshire pig). Known for its marbling, the only significant difference was the softness of the meat in this greeting. Introduction was a sip of the tonkotsu (pig bones) which has been simmered for 2 days and dusted with chilli flakes. Ordinarily salty and dense, sadly. And au revoir was an interesting touch of lettuce leaves for crunch.

Where were the sparks that I hoped and so looking forward to, dear dandelion?

Firm, bland, slightly unsweetened but attractive, the Matcha Chiffon Cake (S$5.80). Goes to show that first impression does make a difference. Could it be the unGodly hour visit that had turned the soft, Tinkerbell-looking chiffon into a hard, green Hulk?

From the iconic ramen movie to the medicinal benefits of the dandelion, Tampopo is all about goodness. Weeds (or earlier disappointments) aside, of course.

With such optimism and an interesting selection of ramen, I will be back.

And who know, friendships may just blossom from some of them acquaintances, no?

Tampopo
177, River Valley Road
#01-23/24
Liang Court Shopping Centre
Tel: (+65) 63383186

Note: Dandelions are called tampopo in Japanese.

Other Tampopo experiences:
Camemberu
HisFoodBlog
LiquidShadow
Brad
Timeless Facade
Recent Runes
Dancing Blue Seal

The Khukri

Kathmandu

Near Durbar Square, a group of Nepalese men were warming up against the cold, winter night while feasting on momos, reportedly to resemble the Chinese Xiao Long Bao, complete with pork as filling.

A culinary treasure of interest.


Singapore

The HQ (with its proclaimed 7 Mbps mainframe) has identified the location where the treasure can be found, without having to cross the Himalayan mountains via India. As the 40-seaters Mercedes Benz moved, the mission had begun.

Look for the Gurkha blade.

The name’s Khukri.


Kuala Lumpur

The street was busy on a Sunday afternoon. The brotherhood of foreign workers jostled about Jalan Tun Tan Siew Sin with calling cards enquiries as one of the main activities in place. An exotic ensemble of music blasted from all corners of the street. There was no need for the Beretta 418s or the Walther P99s, for the safety of M, whom had decided to join the mission. But this was before the shootout at Sienna. I scouted around for escape routes. Should anything happen, the Aston Martin would have not been much of a help as buses halted along the sideways, calling out for customers and caused a slight congestion along the way. The DB5 would have looked like a statuette instead, I imagined. But we knew it was safe and trust was all we had. We'll just have to die another day.

The stairs leading to the blade was bright, though narrow. Turning back, we saw several buildings layered with posters imprinted with what were assumed to be Nepalese characters. I asked M if she was ready to meet the blade. Her response was clear. You only live twice.

A friendly gentleman in traditional Nepalese costume and simple English ushered us to our table. With a view to a kill, we were confident of a fruitful exchange, sans the Saville Row suit, martinis and Pussy Galore.

And came the list of interests.

Filling up the well-spaced room were customers of Nepalese origin, jollying on visually interesting food and cold beer. Some decided to read the daily, catching up on the latest news back home. As we observed, we understood the Khukri as a quantum of solace, filling up the missing part called home. But for some, the missing parts can never be found again. Vesper Lynd.

The Mahi (RM3.00) was a welcoming drink that fulfilled its task as an appetizer, given its sourish base. This yoghurt drink can be served either plain or sweet (by adding sugar). Full-bodied, Camille Montes’ luscious lips came to mind.

If the name does not sexcite one, perhaps the ingredients will; lamb head and legs. Oily but well-spiced, the Khasi Ko Tauko/Khutta Ko (and we thought Wai Lin was the most sexotic name we’ve ever heard) soup was a milder version of a hot curry, yet retained the aroma of spices such as cardamom and star anise. The meat was slightly tough though. A big portion at RM7.50.

All the way from Bhutan, there was Andra Bhudi Buteko (RM6.00); fried intestines coated with Nepali spices. For your eyes only, it was beautifully red, thanks to the generous amount of paprika-like seasoning. The intestines were rather tough, unfortunately. Tomatoes, onions and a squeeze of lime to add some flavours to the dish.

It was the momo (RM7.50) that we eyed for. Simple and steamed, the filling tasted rather different from the usual Sino dumplings we had. There was a vague hint of nutmeg lingering within the tiniest of spaces between the minced, lean pork. Quantity sometimes plays a part and nobody does it better than an Octopussy. But when quantity is translated as thick folds of skin of the dumpling, it’s not the least appealing. But there’s the sweet, sour and hot dipping to turn the wrongs back into the rights.

Possessing the license to kill time, M and I ordered the Chili Kukhura (RM8.50); a deep fried chicken dish dressed in Nepalese sauce. Sweet and sour sauce dressing bite-sized pieces of soft, fried chicken, it attracts all. Remember Jinx? We all loved her bikini, didn’t we?

If Christmas Jones meets Strawberry Fields (if ever), one can only come to the sweetest of desserts. A warm, milky rice pudding called Kheer (RM6.00) in one hand, a semolina-based Haluwa custard in another. If live and let die was to be decided between the desserts these hands hold, let them wrists bleed.

As we closed on the edge of the blade, M said of another mission to uncover the culinary treasures in the land of blue sapphires and pigeon blood rubies.

Gladly, I said, for the world is not enough.

Never.

The Khukri
No. 26, First Floor
Jalan Tun Tan Siew Sin (Jalan Silang)
50050 Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
Tel: (+603) 2072 0663
Email: thekhukri@yahoo.com

Other agents reviews:
Lyrical Lemongrass (M)
Cumi & Ciki

Restoran Baan Nok

About two weeks before we visited Baan Nok, an African-American senator had just been elected as the Democratic Party's presidential candidate to contest in the 2008 election for the ownership to the administrative power of the White House. As he celebrated his victory against another Democrat presidential-hopeful (who might have made history as well by becoming the first female president of America), the public has already speculated an arduous campaign ahead. The next 5 months were expected to include the usual battles of wit, spectacularly convincible reform policies and exposés of stained backgrounds. For this senator, there was another issue to be tackled, which was absolutely unnecessary and irrelevant. Colour.

If differences such as background and colour were such taboos, this group of blogging friends, which consisted of a yellow hairy berry, a whiff of masala-flavoured lemongrass and an Australian blunt knife named James would have been be barred from dining together, more so comfortably in a Thai restaurant, sipping beer while laughing and sweating over fiery hot Thai food in Pandan Indah. It would have been such a pity, wouldn’t it?

Diversity is a blessing and has its abundance of advantages, if managed well.

Take a glance of the street where Baan Nook is located and one will be amused by the interesting number of Thai restaurants and markets. And to think that the colourful Chinese restaurants, cafés and Mamak stalls are just a few blocks away. This is not just a celebration of taste. But the diversity of life as well.

As far as these tastebuds are concerned, Baan Nok serves delicious, authentic Thai food. The name, which suggests countryside only adds to the charm of the restaurant.

The Som Tam came as an appetiser. Basically a Thai salad, it consisted of julienned green papaya, groundnuts, dried shrimps and tomatoes. Drizzled with a heavy dose of lime juice and fish sauce, the flavour was dense and somehow refreshing at the same time. One will not forget the extra heat that comes with it, thanks to the generous amount of bird eye chillies.

Expect to perspire buckets when the dish is red, like the Tom Yam soup. Generous with the prawns, among other ingredients, the soup was aptly sour with a hint of sweetness. The only reason to stop taking the appetising soup was the progressive heat that built up on the tongue, to a point where continuous sips led to a slight migraine. A gastronomic sauna, this.

Perhaps the mildest in terms of heat, the Pad Thai was visually beautiful, to say the least. Again, with generous amount of ingredients such as shrimps, chicken cubes and beansprouts, there was nothing much to complain about. The rice noodle was firm and had absorbed all the wonderful flavours of the seasonings such as soy and sweet chilli sauces. Definitely one of those pad thais that run low on pretentiousness (some are just basically mee goreng) and high on authenticity.

The Kerabu Babi was beyond expectation as it tasted like a stir-fried dish instead of a salad. In a good way, of course. The pork pieces were tender and the chilli sauce that dressed the meat was aromatic and yes, spicy. But like all kerabus, there were heaps of shallots for the crunch and sweetness.

At the end of the day, despite our differences, we were all red from the heat and beer. RM60 for an authentic meal with generous amount of ingredients, it was quite a good deal. And getting lost in translation with our embarrassing Hokkien and their minimal Cantonese doubled the fun.

We might not know what the future holds for the new USofA which will directly affect the chaotic world we are living in now. But yesterday's historical win did provide hope that perhaps one fine day, we shall all be equal in the name of humanity and be judged by what we can do, not the colour of our skin. Nor the food we eat.

"Our stories are singular, but our destiny is shared", said the newly elected 44th president of the United States of America. Yes, shared. That is one darn fine word if you ask me because without sharing, there'll be no unity.

Baan Nok
43A, Jalan Pandan Indah 4/6B
Pandan Indah
55100 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: (+603) 4296 7525

Check out these Baan Nok experiences:
Cumi & Ciki
Lyrical Lemongrass
Jason

Jia Ji Mei Shi @ Chinatown Complex

Fish Porridge (S$2.00), Raw Fish (S$3.00)

Yam Cake (S$2.00)

Soon Kueh (S$4.00)

Fried Bee Hoon (S$1.00)

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There are things in life that need not much detailing. Nor glittery stardust ending to clothe a prose. The science of it breezes through the same channel of inhalation.

You will understand if you’ve found yours.

A familiar dialect, a hearty meal.

The same old you.

Jia Ji Mei Shi
#02-166
Chinatown Complex
335, Smith Street
Singapore 050335